23 August 2024
By Dr. Ketut Jaman

"Desa Adat" refers to a customary village in Bali, Indonesia, that operates according to local customs and traditions. These villages play a key role in Balinese culture, governed by traditional laws and regulations that uphold social order and religious practices. They are community-centered, preserving cultural heritage and performing spiritual and communal duties. This article will provide an overview of Desa Adat Manukaya Let, including its arts, religion, village regulations, and financial system. The information is based on research conducted in Desa Adat Manukaya Let from 2021 to 2022 through interviews, observations, and literature review.
1. Arts in Manukaya Let Customary Village
Almost all types of art can be found in this customary village, including dance, performing arts, visual arts, traditional music, and literature. Ancient dances still preserved today include Tari Baris and Tari Rejang. These sacred dances are performed by groups of male and female teenagers during pujawali (temple festivals) at various temples. There is also the traditional art of wayang kulit (shadow puppetry) preserved by a family of puppeteers. Visual arts in the village are diverse, including statues, carvings, and paintings. Some residents are skilled in crafting bone carvings. Traditional music, particularly kerawitan (Balinese gamelan music), is highly appreciated, evidenced by the presence of various gamelan instruments such as gong kebyar, selonding, angklung, bebunangan, and bebarongan. Literary arts in the form of kakawin (epic poetry), wirama (melodic chanting), and kidung (hymns) are still practiced during religious ceremonies, both at home and in temples.
One notable dance in Manukaya Let is the performance of mebedag-bedagan. This tradition is presented as a theatrical performance with a storyline titled “bedag-bedaganâ€. The performance involves the community, including children and adults. It requires six young people to carry Ida Bhatara Mas, six performers for Jauk dance, one for kaki-kakian (foot dance), one for dadong-dadongan (doll-like dance), one for bedag-bedagan, one balian (healer), and two assistants, as well as one performer for gandrung dance. The performance takes place throughout the Manukaya Let Costumary Village in Tampaksiring. It involves several stages, including the sesolahan (dance) of Ida Bhatara Mas, followed by kaki-kakian, dadong-dadongan, balian, gandrung, bedag-bedagan, and jauk. This performance is routinely conducted during wuku Dungulan (a specific Balinese calendar period) by the residents of Manukaya Let Customary Village.
The role of the mabedag-bedagan performance is to embody the concept of “Braya Atut Sampi Idup,†meaning that human behavior as social beings is to act as brothers and sisters, helping to build what is good and eliminating all that is bad. Additionally, the performance serves as a sacred dance that upholds the unity of Manukaya Let Customary Village itself.
2. Religious System and Beliefs of Manukaya Let Customary Village
All residents of Manukaya Let Customary Village practice Hinduism. They are very devoted to upholding customs, religion, traditions, and culture. The village has a sacred Barong Ket, which is highly revered. The Barong Ket is a fusion of the forms of a lion, tiger, bull, and dragon. Its body is adorned with intricately carved skin and hundreds of small mirror pieces that sparkle like gemstones when exposed to light. The Barong Ket's fur is made from a combination of perasok (pandan-like plant fibers) and ijuk (palm fibers), with some using crow feathers instead. The Barong Ket symbolizes Banaspati Raja, which means the king of the forest, representing a manifestation of Barong as a symbol of benevolent spirits. The head decoration uses sekar taji (flower ornaments) made from carved skin, gilded with gold leaf, and adorned with small mirrors. The term "barong" is believed to come from the Sanskrit word "bharwang" or "bear." In Balinese life, bears are not found, so the figure is seen as a mythical being with supernatural powers and a protector.
The belief in Ida Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa and all his manifestations has led the residents of Manukaya Let Customary Village to establish numerous large and grand temples. The village hosts seventeen temples spread across three banjar (neighborhood groups). The temples located in Banjar Manukaya Let include Pura Masceti, Pura Ida Dewa Galiran, Pura Carik Pasekan, Pura Penataran Alit, Pura Puseh, Pura Agung, Pura Catur Bhuana, Pura Batur Sari, Pura Anyar, and Pura Sakenan. In Banjar Bantas, there are Pura Gumang, Pura Sepi, Pura Batu Madeg, and Pura Gunung Ngebek. In Banjar Tatag, there are Pura Jati, Pura Suradayu, and Pura Mrajapati. Two temples are located relatively far from the Manukaya Let Customary Village: Pura Tirta Empul to the east of the Presidential Palace of Indonesia and Pura Dalem Pingit to the west of the Presidential Palace.
The pujawali ceremonies at each temple occur every 6, 12, and 24 months (one Balinese month equals 35 days). These ceremonies are led by jro mangku (temple priests) from Manukaya Let Customary Village and are never led by pedanda (high priests). This is because the holy water requested from Pura Tirta Empul already possesses supernatural power and purity, suitable for various ritual ceremonies.
The deity residing at Pura Tirta Empul holds special significance for the people of Manukaya Let Customary Village. He is believed to possess extraordinary supernatural power (sidi), as evidenced by the many people from different regions who come to purify themselves spiritually, a process known as melebur or malukat at Pura Tirta Empul. The local community also believes that Pura Tirta Empul represents a scaled-down version of swargan (heaven) where the gods reside. Indeed, many Hindus continue to request holy water (nunas tirta) from Pancaka Tirta (the place to request five types of holy water) within the Pura Tirta Empul complex for various rituals, including cremation ceremonies.
Regarding cremation ceremonies (ngaben), the customary village prohibits individual cremations, requiring residents to participate in a mass cremation held every five years. Individual cremations are allowed only for a jro mangku, jro bandesa, or jro mekel. Unlike other customary villages, Manukaya Let does not require a nyekah ceremony as part of the cremation process. The sequence of the cremation ceremony in Manukaya Let consists of ngulapin (calling the spirit), nyiramin (bathing the corpse), ngajum kajang (symbolizing family acceptance of the deceased), ngaskara (purification of the deceased's soul), mameras (signifying completion), papegatan (severing worldly ties), pakiriman ngutang (placing the corpse and its belongings into the bade for burial), ngeseng (burning the corpse), nganyud (scattering the ashes in a river or sea), makelud (cleaning and purifying the family environment), and nyegara gunung (invoking deities). The nyekah or memukur (severing the spirit's connection to the elements) is no longer needed as mengening-ening ceremonies have been performed twice at the titi gonggang (stone bridge) located outside the Pura Tirta Empul, two days before the cremation ceremony and on the morning before the ngeseng.
In Manukaya Let Customary Village, there is no specific day required for burying the deceased. If a resident dies, the body can be buried on any day, except for the two days following death. If a death occurs during major religious festivals or while pujawali is ongoing at the temple, the village administration assigns krama from twelve song or courtyards to assist the bereaved family with the burial ceremony. At the time of burial, a ritual called ngurug is performed, and there is no need to choose an auspicious day for this ritual. During mass cremations (ngaben ngerit), the skeletal remains are exhumed and burned during the ngeseng ceremony. In other villages, such as in Desa Taro, residents no longer retrieve the skeletal remains but only collect the soil from above the grave, which is considered to represent the bones. In addition to the divine and human sacrificial rituals, the residents of Manukaya Let Customary Village are very disciplined in performing agricultural rituals, such as the biyukukung ceremony before the rice harvest.
3. The Awig-Awig of Manukaya Let Customary Village
Manukaya Let Customary Village has a written set of regulations known as awig-awig, which was registered with the Gianyar Local Government on January 18, 1989, Document Number 1, Year 1989. This awig-awig has not been formally revised to date. Regulations deemed outdated are adjusted through informal perarem (rules).
The main body of the awig-awig includes an Introduction (Murdha Cita), 8 chapters (Sarga), and 17 articles (Palet). Six main issues are addressed in the awig-awig, covered in chapters 1 through 6 as follows:
- Chapter I: Details the village name and its territorial divisions (Aran lan Wewidangan Desa). The official name of the village is Manukaya Let Customary Village. The village boundaries are to the north of Penempahan Customary Village, to the east and south of Manukaya Anyar customary village, and to the west of Calo Customary Village. The village is comprised of 130 karang ayah desa (sub-villages), divided into three tempekan (areas): Banjar Manukaya Let, Bantas, and Tatag.
- Chapter II: States the foundation and objectives of the customary village (Patitis lan Pamikukuh). The foundation includes Pancasila, the 1945 Constitution Article 18, and tri hita karana. The objectives are to strengthen and preserve Hinduism, uphold religious rules, and maintain the organizational system and community both on a material and spiritual level.
- Chapter III: Regulates the organization of community life (Sukerta Tata Pekraman), covering matters related to village members (krama), village administration, the kulkul (traditional bell), meetings, village assets, and sukerta pamitegep (regulations on property). Pamitegep covers six areas: land (yards, rice fields, and gardens), plants, buildings, pets, disaster management, and banjar gatherings. Village members are categorized into four groups: (a) Krama ayah ngarep (household with yard and agricultural land), (b) Krama ayah karang (household with yard only), (c) Krama baluangkep (married family without yard or agricultural land), and (d) Krama tapukan (members not yet eligible for community service).
- Chapter IV: Addresses religious systems and beliefs, including the performance of five types of religious ceremonies known as panca yadnya: dewa yadnya (ceremonies for gods), rsi yadnya (ceremonies for priests), pitra yadnya (ceremonies for ancestors), manusa yadnya (ceremonies for humans), and bhuta yadnya (ceremonies for spirits). Pura Tirta Empul is listed in Article 5 regarding village assets. It is mentioned that Manukaya Let Customary Village owns various assets, including (a) Kahyangan desa (village temples) such as Pura Tirta Empul, Pura Pucak, Pura Paiguman, Pura Batumadeg, Pura Batur Sari, and Pura Anya; (b) Village hall or wantian; (c) 105 yards; (d) Cemetery (setra); (e) Temple property including rice and garden land; and (f) Arts such as gong/gamelan and traditional dances (baris, rejang, tari wali). Article 31 specifies temples in Manukaya Let, including (a) Kahyangan tiga: Pura Puseh, Pura Bale Agung, and Pura Dalem; (b) Pura Ulun Suwi, Pura Bedugul, Pura Sakenan, Pura Catur, Pura Kawan; (c) Temples in each banjar/tempekan: Pura Gunung Salak in Banjar Bantas, and Pura Jati in Banjar Tatag. The schedule for temple ceremonies (piodalan or pujawali) is as follows:
- Pura Tirta Empul: Sasih Kapat, Pengelong Apisan
- Pura Dalem: Sasih Ketiga, Tileming
- Pura Puseh: Sasih Kenem, Purnamaning
- Pura Bale Agung: Sasih Kapat, Purnamaning
- Pura Pucak: Sasih Kapat, Purnamaning
- Pura Penataran Paiguman: Sasih Kenem, Purnamaning
- Pura Sakenan: Buda Wage Klawu
- Pura Catur: Weraspati Kliwon Menail
- Pura Anyar: Tumpek Wayang
- Pura Batu Madeg: Kajeng Umanis Sasih Kelima
- Pura Ulun Suwi/Bedugul: Sasih Kasa, Purnamaning
- Pura Jati Tatag: Sasih Kaulu, Purnamaning
- Pura Gunung Ebek Bantas: Sasih Kedasa, Purnamaning
Religious ceremonies at each temple may be conducted simply (nista), moderately (madia), or fully (utama), based on capability and agreement (perarem) of the village. Additional ceremonies include:
- At Kahyangan desa: Pura Tirta Empul has a Penumpekan ceremony every 35 days on Saturdays Kliwon. Pura Puseh and Pura Bale Agung have Nyangkepan ceremonies every 15 days, coinciding with Purnama and Tilem.
- Ceremonies for animal safety (Tumpek Uye) and agricultural fertility (Tumpek Wariga) are held every 210 days.
- Rice cultivation ceremonies include mendak toya, metanduran, pengapih mrana, ngalapin, and storing rice in granaries.
Each tempekan responsible for managing temples includes (a) Pura Jati managed by Banjar Tatag, (b) Pura Gunung Ebek managed by Banjar Bantas, (c) Pura Catur managed by Banjar Manukaya Let, and (d) other temples managed by Manukaya Let Customary Village. To maintain the purity of the temples, the following restrictions apply:
Entry is not permitted for:
a. Those observing the sebel (purification for ritualistic reasons).
b. Individuals after childbirth (105 days for the mother, 12 days for the father).
c. Individuals after a family member's death (12 days for immediate family, 3 days for village members).
d. Individuals after marriage (until mebyakala ceremony is completed).
e. Temple priests are exempt from restrictions due to a death in the community.
f. Restrictions due to infant death.
g. Infants not yet named: parents cannot enter the temple for 42 days; village members involved in the burial observe the restriction for 12 days.
h. Infants who die at birth: the mother observes the restriction for 42 days, the father for 12 days, and village members for 3 days.
i. Bringing items considered to "contaminate" the temple.
j. Large animals (sato agung), except during ceremonial events.
k. Improper attire not suitable for temple.
l. Entry without permission from village officials.
While inside the temple, village members are prohibited from activities such as (a) performing masumpah (ritual bathing), unless permitted by village officials, (b) arguing, dating, sleeping together, urinating, defecating, removing clothing, adjusting hair, and (c) climbing onto sacred structures, except with permission. Violations result in penalties, including performing a pemerayascita ceremony. If someone is possessed (kerawuhan), the validity of the possession can be checked (kapintonin). If not genuine, penalties are imposed according to perarem. In cases of disaster affecting the temple, the priest must report to village officials for further village meetings and appropriate ceremonies.
- Chapter V: Covers social systems including marriage, divorce, descendants, and inheritance. A marriage is valid if it includes the pabyakala or pesakapan ceremony performed by a pandita or pinandita, witnessed by village officials, and confirmed by the sound of the kulkul.
- Chapter VI: Details on disputes and penalties/fines. Disputes are decided by the Village Officials and Kerta Desa. Those dissatisfied with Kerta Desa's decision can seek justice at the District Court. The customary village can impose fines on residents who violate rules.
- Chapter VII: Contains additional regulations. Matters not covered in the awig-awig must follow commonly accepted procedures discussed in village meetings.
- Chapter VIII: The conclusion. The awig-awig was officially ratified on Saturday Kliwon Wayang, Sasih Kelima, in the Caka Year 1910, corresponding to October 29, 1988, in Pura Agung Manukaya Let Customary Village. It was signed by six heads of institutions:
- Bandesa Adat Manukaya Let: I Gusti Ngurah Darma Cakradana.
- Klian Banjar Tatag: I Made Gerembeng.
- Klian Banjar Bantas: I Nyoman R
4. Financial System of Manukaya Let Customary Village
The Manukaya Let Customary Village has a fairly organized financial recording system. The village treasurer records all income in the form of money, such as tourism fees from visitors to Pura Tirta Empul, offerings and donations from worshippers who perform ceremonies or purifications at Pura Tirta Empul, rental of lockers at Pura Tirta Empul, and other income. The village treasurer also records various expenses, including:
- Administrative costs and office supplies (stationery).
- Fuel and gas.
- Salaries or honoraria for village officials and security personnel at Pura Tirta Empul.
- Social activities and competitions (sports, arts, cultural activities).
- Consumption (food and beverages).
- Laundry of ceremonial cloths.
- Electricity, lighting, and illumination.
- Organizational training.
- Environmental maintenance, including trees and cleanliness.
- Maintenance of lockers.
- Addition of temple properties (statues, carvings).
- Procurement of ceremonial fabrics, cloths, and adornments for the temple.
- Repayment of loans/installments.
- Procurement of work equipment.
- Donations (punia).
- Offerings for religious ceremonies outside the village.
- Renovation of temple buildings and public facilities.
- Vehicle servicing.
- Maintenance of equipment and facilities at the temple.
- Donations for the village outside of Manukaya Let (bazaars, donations, etc.).
- Donations for education/schools.
- Donations for the medical treatment of ill residents.
- Donations for residents who give birth.
- Donations for residents who marry.
- Donations for residents who experience a death in the family.
- Dance performances for religious ceremonies.
- Operational transportation.
- Religious ceremonies and ceremonial materials.
Desa Adat Manukaya Let plays a crucial role in managing and preserving the Tirta Empul Temple in Tampaksiring. This majestic temple is visited by thousands of people every day, whether they come to perform purification rituals, pray, or visit as tourists.